Vintage Bobbin

Yves Saint Laurent et la Haute Couture

2012-02-08T20:34:00.003-05:00

Well, I haven't done much sewing. I'm busy studying for a french test, but I intend on sewing at least a good half of the dress tomorrow. This is a great video about Yves Saint Laurent, alas it's in French. But you don't have to speak it for you to enjoy the great vintage footage of him in the workroom. If you don't want to watch 17 minutes, I implore you to skip to 11:53 where they discuss (or show, for those non-french speakers) the famous Mondrian dress. Around 15:00 they discuss the smoking jacket design and how he introduced masculine aesthetic for women's wear during the 1970s. It's just a great piece of eye candy if you have some spare time and need some inspiration! I know I do!

Sewing Project: Mondrian Dress

2012-02-04T22:23:00.005-05:00

My mom introduced me to Yves Saint Laurent when I was a little girl. It was the fashions she admired growing up in the 60s and later in college when she was an art student. She adored the paper dress trend and YSL’s use of contemporary artists to influence fashion. I can remember her beginner antiquing days searching the very new and popular eBay for paper dresses. Alas, she underestimated how small I really was and most items never fit.

The Mondrain dress had to be an item that my mother and I have lusted after for years. There isn’t anything like it, nor will there be. Each block was so perfectly handsewn that the seams of the blocks of jersey are nearly invisible. It’s the perfect shape and color. My love of style and art all in one little shift dress.

That is why I have to be the luckiest girl in the world to have found this fabric. It’s nothing like the original YSL Mondrian dress. The print is more condensed than the one or two blocks of color. The blue, red, and yellow have been replaced with bright aqua, orange, hot pink, lime green, violet, and sunny yellow. It screams 80s, yet the notable Mondrian composition makes my heart flutter. It was one of my more expensive fabrics for $40 for 2.5 yards, but it was the first (and probably) only time I’ve seen a Mondrian print in an apparel fabric. It’s a heavy, double knit and 60 inches wide.

Now that I explained why it’s important in terms of vintage fashion, let me get my art history geek on. Mondrian was apart of the neoplasticism school. It was all about order, harmony, and balance with the use of primary colors and geometric shapes. It’s easy to assume that Mondrian was exploring shapes, and he is, but he is also exploring the autonomous nature of white. The different directions he applied the paint caused the brushstrokes to create texture and depth in a color we think as monotonous and dull.

Okay, the college girl has retired for the day! Onto the project. I thought I would use Simplicity 4860 again. I thought I would use a similar silhouette to the YSL dress, and I find that the fabric is too overwhelming for a simple A-line shift dress. I kept on going back to the 4860 pattern, that I used previously last spring. The dress is flattering, professional, and with the waist tie it will break apart the body so the fabric doesn’t swallow me whole. I’m going to start going on a lot of interviews for grad school and I thought this would be the perfect dress to make a good impression.

To the cutting board I go!

I'M BACK!!!!

2012-02-01T00:26:00.003-05:00

I'd like to say I spent my fall semester like this, ignoring this blog while I drank bum wine and played Skeeter Davis. Instead I was taking 21 credits, a full-time internship, writing my senior thesis, and taking a GRE course. And no, I didn't get to spend my winter break like this either. Because I spent so much time on everything else, I ended up burning out and flunked bio. So, I had to retake it in an intensive three week course over break. So, I'm officially on vacation, even though I started my spring semester last week. You see, besides the senior thesis waiting to be researched and written, I'm done. D-O-N-E. GRE taken, requirements reached, internships completed. I just submitted all of my grad school applications today, which means I have to find ways to take my mind off of the wait for a response. So, that fabric stash I'd complied over winter break? It's coming out tomorrow! So, ladies and gents, thank you for your patience, we'll be returning to regular broadcasting shortly!

Knitting Project: Harvest York Wrap

2011-09-30T10:02:00.005-04:00

This is where I got my Raverly avatar. I'm a sucker for WWI war propaganda.

I'm sadistic. I know. I like to put as much stress as I can on myself to see how far I can go without having a nervous breakdown. My new reality is I'm forced to go grocery shopping at 12AM because I have no more free time left on my schedule. Wonderful perks of living in NYC suburbia, everything is open at ridiculous hours. I guess I'm not the only one being stretched. Sewing is pretty nonexistent lately. However, I do find time to knit. I think it's because it's easy to multitask. I don't have the loud motor going off at intervals, I can take it where ever, and I can concentrate on other things like my GRE prep videos while I knit. At least I have an idea on how to keep this blog alive except small posts every week on how busy I am. :D

Last year's chaos at the NYSW&S festival.

Last year I had the incredible experience of going to the New York State Wool and Sheep Festival located in Rhinebeck, New York. Yes, the same place the Clinton daughter got married. I was actually doing my internship pretty close by that summer and got the scoop on all the event drama by neighbors. Small towns in Hudson Valley have a way of spreading good dish like wildfire. Anyway, so when a gorgeous town hosts a mega yarn fest you can definately count me in! I had no idea how big it was until I got there and I wasn't suppose to buy anything either.

I still have the bag after all this time. It was my first 'gourmet' yarn purchase. I felt so proud.

I was good, until the end of the day while I was walking to my car I found the most amazing stall. Briar Rose Fibers. It's everything I could ever want in yarn. Pure handspun wool, handdyed in beautiful colors, with a rustic medieval feel. $55 for 700 yds seemed like a good deal to me. Unfortunately, I couldn't find 2 skeins, but maybe that's a good thing. I am as broke then as I am now.

Seven-hundred yards of "Abundance"

So this has been in my stash for over a year. I had a limited supply of Abundance in this colorway so I wanted to make sure it was the perfect pattern. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough for a sweater and I am so done making berets and scarfs.

Guernsey Wrap by Brooklyn Tweed

Did I tell you I'm also a big fan of Brooklyn Tweed? I dare you to take a look. This is what modern knit companies should be. It's if L.L. Bean and Paton's Classic Wool decided to get married and have a baby called Brooklyn Tweed. How can you not adore a pattern called the Levenwick or Peabody? I happened to like the simplicity of the Guernsey Wrap. "Fisherman inspired texture" and it's a little wider than your average scarf? Count me in! Pattern was only $5 and I felt for the yarn it was justified, but I try not to buy patterns if I can help it, not with the great Raverly resource. I'm calling it the Harvest York Wrap, since autumn is harvest time here in the HV and I live in New York. Not really creative, but it works.

I'm determined to knit this thing up before the NYSW&S festival in two weeks. I hope I can finish it! (or block it!)

More Updates!

2011-09-25T20:23:00.004-04:00

MOMA, 1949

Just to let you know that the blog isn't forgotten, just highly ignored. I just acquired a very desired internship as a gallery assistant, as if my plate isn't full enough! I hope I can update a bit on work once some of the shows are organized and maybe what things I'll wear, it's possible I might be inspired to make a few things for the openings. However, don't be surprised at the sporadic updates.

Enjoy a happy, beautiful Autumn!

Holy ETS, Batman!

2011-09-13T11:27:00.001-04:00

So, I haven't updated in a while. I've been completely up to my head in work. My day has consisted so far of coffee, studying, eating, sleeping. Rinse. Repeat. Who said senior year was easy? I had the amazing pleasure of taking the revised GRE test last week and did amazingly bad. Bad enough I would feel humiliated posting my score. For those of you that might be overseas or it's been a long time since college, the GREs are also known as the Graduate Record Exam. Most liberal arts, social science, and humanities graduate programs require it for admissions. Think of it as a big SAT to get to grad school. Well, like the SAT when I took it, they revised it. They tricked you by giving you a 50% off price tag so you wouldn't take the old one and when you got there realized they added 2 essays and made it even more difficult than before. ETS is a bunch of bologna. My father had the amazing heart (and pocket) of signing me up for the Kaplan prep course. So besides writing my senior thesis (which is a problem in itself right now) I have been blessed with studying my social life away to kill this Moby Dick of an exam. I'm going to work on my quilt today, finally! But don't expect a post too soon.

Quilt Diary: Autumn Pinwheels - 1st quilt ever!

2011-08-29T14:00:00.005-04:00

View from my dorm window. Yay! Senior Housing!

So, sorry for the break. I am officially moved-in and ready for my first class. French, fantastic, haven't picked up a french book all semester! Oh, and that senior thesis, no problem! Forgot my APA book at home! Let me just run two hours home to get it! And that GRE exam scheduled for next week, totally going to wing it! Ha...ha...ha...

I hope you picked up on my sarcasm.

Okay, back to the issue at hand. Not to brag, but I am a pretty good seamstress. I made a living of it for 5+ years at a pretty common bridal store. I can put in a zipper in a flash. You have to be fast because you're working in a tight deadline. However, I'm pretty new to knitting and quilting, two things I really want to focus this upcoming semester. After a busy bridal season the last thing I want to do is sew a garment. I want to do something different. So, I'm up for making a quilt! It's something my mother did a few years back and made a quilt for me, which unfortunately has been worn to death over time, and it's a project I can share the process with and ask advice. It's a nice challenge.

I got around 10 $2 quilt quarters from Jo-Anns all in nice autumn colors. I haven't got any other supplies like boarder fabric or batting, it's all one step at a time for me. I wanted to do their Quilt of the Month, which requires 12 $8 block kits and then a $40 setting kit, which seemed astronomical pricey to me. It just blows my mind the amount of money people put into a quilt. I totally understand quality fabrics and supplies for sewing is worth it but while I am on a poor student budget I have to make compromises. I also understand that it's art, just like fashion is, but it just doesn't connect in my head at all.

Hurricane Irene wasn't that destructive in my neck of the woods, and much sympathy and support goes out those who were affected. Monday was officially move-in day at college. However, the NYS thruway was flooded and closed off to all traffic, so I was stuck upstate for one more day and tried to keep busy to kill time. So I rolled out the fabric quarters to get started!

This is all very new to me. However, I do have a rotary cutter and a cutting mat. I basically followed the fold lines, which my mother did when she quilted, and kept all the extra for a scraps bin. It seems like a lot of fabric to waste, but my mother told me it helps when you go off to do that ambitious scrap quilt to have a little more than necessary.

After a few cutting it seemed like I had enough for a quilt. It's not perfect, but I'm not striving for perfection. I actually admire quilts that look a little imperfect.

New York Renaissance Faire

2011-08-22T10:35:00.003-04:00

I went to the NYS Renaissance Faire, which is a pretty big deal, and attracts a huge crowd every weekend. First thing I wanted to do was get my hair braided, and low and behold it was the first stall I saw. Then we went to see a fire juggler and watched a medieval glassblowing show. Afterward, I got a Bee Sting, which is cider and mead, along with a nice fruit plate. We watched the joust which was a lot of fun but got horrible seats. Then walked a bit in the "enchanted forest" and met up with Robin Hood's men. All in all it was a great day that brought out the total geek in me.

Mood Board: Quilts

2011-08-18T12:02:00.002-04:00

I really want to make a quilt, like those 1930 feedbag quilts, but I've never quilted before. It shouldn't be that hard, right? Lead me in the right direction please!

Knitting Patterns: 1956 Coat's & Clark "Bulky Knits"

2011-08-16T10:29:00.003-04:00

Not much sewing getting accomplished this week as I assumed there would be. I actually am trying to dedicate myself to my GRE study guide, however it seems I'm just watching True Blood and tidying up my room all day. So I thought I should take the time to finally scan in one of the knitting books as promised. I thought you guys waited long enough for it. This one is probably one of my favorites from the bunch. Who doesn't like bulky patterns? They don't require a lot of yarn and if you settle into a good movie while you knit you can be nearly done with the pattern by the time the end credits roll. I thought I should get one in for all of you preparing for your fall knitting. A lot of vintage knitting I really couldn't see myself wearing let alone knitting it up but this book has a huge amount of patterns that I would even consider contemporary!

I've compiled the pattern book into a PDF here. It is free for you to use. Disclaimer: I do not own these designs and they are the intellectual property of Coat's and Clark. This is for inspiration and personal use only. Please credit accordingly!

Camping in PA

2011-08-15T08:00:00.001-04:00

Last week I packed up 3 suitcases for a small camping trip in Pennsylvania with some of my future roommates and their buddies. It was loads of fun even if it rained for long periods of time during the trip. I traveled around 300 miles to central PA for a small park called Little Buffalo. Yes, it was little, if you weren't quick to turn you would have entered and left before you knew it. Honestly I think the parks up in the Hudson Valley are probably the best, but I'm a diehard New Yorker, born and bred, so it's in my veins to be biased. There were a few sights to see at the park including a really cool water power mill. There were butterflies everywhere and we even saw a crane, both really hard to catch by camera. But now I'm back and officially left work so I hope I can get sewing done before I pack up my things for college by the end of the month.

During the bouts of rain we went inside our cabin and played this unusual rip-off of D&D made in the '80s which ensued lots of laughter. We did a bit of hiking when the sun was out and eventually got a fire started to make some traditional s'mores. We stayed in a cabin with electricity, a hot stove for breakfast, and someone actually brought a fridge for the cold-sensitive items. To me, this was like going up to my Dad's mountain house, except the toilets are located in his house instead of a shower house a walk away. Nothing too out of the ordinary. Though I think his house is better (well, it's not 300 miles away, lol!)

All in all I was glad to come home, I don't feel very vintage-y wearing camping gear. Obviously I packed clothing for convenience and comfort since I couldn't see myself wearing vintage hiking, even if I wanted to. It would definitely make for some unusual stares! But as soon as I got home I couldn't wait to get back into a two piece knit suit, some control-top pantyhose, my beloved eyeliner pencil, and brush the dust off my teasing comb. I'm so use to 'the look' that going days wearing contemporary clothing was just awkward. Never again! lol! I just don't feel myself AT ALL!

Finished Project: 1960s Mad Men Shift Dress

2011-08-07T08:00:00.002-04:00

Done house sitting and finished the dress! Beautiful black double knit in a simple, mod style designed by Larry Aldrich. Not much is known about the designer but there are a few Vogue photos with his designs from the 50s that can be found on the web. What I love most about double knit that it doesn't fray! No sergers or zig-zag stitch required. That saved me since I had only one spool of black thread left in my stash. To me it has a very Peggy Olson feel to it, sophisticate yet understated. Despite loving stylish redheads, I'm don't consider myself a femme fatale such as Joan Holloway, though I wouldn't mind her wardrobe. So, what a perfect idea to take some shots in the workplace.

I photoshoped with high saturation in these photos so you can see the detail, so the color might look a little dull. It gathers at the collar, and like my previous post, the interfacing made bit of astronaut collar. But once I got the bow it actually resembled the drawn design (when does that happen?). No tweeking was needed, which was great because I had several days of alterations in the workroom. Do you see two markers on the closet rack? All the gowns between them are to be altered for one day. Yep. Just one day.

To give you a brief synopsis of the alterations room, the space behind me is the steaming and pressing area. Behind the ironing board is the spot cleaning area. To my left is the pick-up line, with finished dresses, and the desk is where all the appointments are made. To my right is the serger, along with a table for oversized dresses, and two industrial sewing machines. Under the table is the boxes of distilled water for the steamer. It's a small room to begin with so imagine when it's summer and the walls are lined with bridal gowns!

What's On My Sewing Machine

2011-08-03T09:41:00.003-04:00

Getting back to the 60s. Mad Men was recently added to Netflix, so after a marathon of chain smoking and mysterious glances from Don Draper, I sought out to make another mod dress to add to my collection. I'm currently housesitting for my Dad and Buddy has been a great sewing assistant! We spent the day watching period movies, like Jane Eyre, and listening to Adele.

Mood Board: Summer Fling

2011-08-02T08:00:00.000-04:00

Finished Project: Vintage Vogue 8728 - 1940's Summer Frock

2011-08-01T10:38:00.004-04:00

This was a quick little project I did over the weekend. Very simple. My father and I went up to this little hamlet called Cragsmoor on the mountain. It a windy road to get there but once you make it up the incline it's a beautiful little town absolutely filled with Victorian homes. It reminded me of the Anne of Green Gables with all the beautiful homes and gardens. Right off of Cragsmoor is the Bear Cliffs, the edge of the mountain, which is perfect for some fashion photography!

I had a hard time with the vintage vogue patterns, every time I would sew one it would be way too big, too loose in the shoulders, and the hem way too long. I've been following the sizes suggested by the measurement chart on the pattern envolope. When I unfolded the pattern I looked at the finished measurements. I've been cutting for a 16 (36 inch bust) and the finished measurement would be around 40 inches. No wonder I've been so annoyed! I've been cutting a size 4 inches too big! This time I cut for a size 12 (34 inch bust) but the finished measument is a 37 inch bust. I've been cutting the wrong size all this time! Er! Well, I cut a 12 in this dress and I had only the slightest adjustment to make, the hem! It was a perfect fit. So word to the wise, look at the finished measurements on the pattern before you cut.

More jewelry from Mama's closet! I made the dress with a nice cotton gingham and some white rick-rack for a period look. It's very light so I had to wear one of my full length slips. I omitted the facing and the two pannels for the side zipper, seemed unnecessary.

I'll be scanning in one of those knitting pattern books sometime this week. My co-workers are borrowing them.

Thrift Finds!

2011-07-27T10:11:00.003-04:00

Yesterday I spent the day catching up with my friends rather than staying at home, playing the next video in my netflix queue, and finishing up my sewing projects. Once and a while you need a social day. Mother and I went to a thrift store in a old warehouse that was filled to the brim with glassware and other kitschy pieces. Mother said she found some vintage clothing and I went to investigate, surely enough it was faux-vintage (new clothes that looked vintage), so I went exploring all the small corners of the warehouse. Surely enough I see a pile of magazine underneath a chair. I've been wanting to find some vintage magazines lately, while there were a huge amount of LIFE magazines, I found a pile of knit magazines. Yay! I took my time and weeded all the uninteresting 70s and 80s knit magazines and picked out the jems. The majority is from 50s and 60s, but there were a few 40s and one from the 30s. Also, there was a pack of "Sewing and Knitting Books" which I have to say was falsely identified because it was one sewing book and the rest are DIY potholders and dollies. She gave them to me for $15 because she said I had the patience to really go through them! Unfortunately, I have to get to work since I was called in today, but I hope to scan some patterns in sometime this week and share the wealth!

Would anyone be interested in the potholders and dollies if I scanned them as well? They're not my cup of tea, but if there are people that love them then I'll add it to the pile to be scanned.

Simplicity Re-Release

2011-07-26T10:30:00.002-04:00

Thank you so much for such a great reception of our costume jewelry post! Mother and I were really upset when we forgot to do designers like Trafari, but we're determined to do another post and maybe go a little more in depth into hardware and care. I've been sewing, so a new post will be very soon, but I get very inconsistent schedules at work. I've worked 7 days straight, but now I have a few days off and hope to get some sewing done! Anyway, yesterday I got the Simplicity newsletter in my inbox and to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Titanic tragedy they are re-releasing pattern 8699. I've seen this pattern on ebay go for $30-$50. It's only online for a very reasonable $7. Get it if you can, maybe pass if you've already have the similar Sensibility's 1910's Tea Gown.

Vintage Jewelry 101

2011-07-20T08:00:00.004-04:00

Written for:

"I'm overwhelmed" is the first thing out of my Mom's mouth when she looks at the piles of vintage jewelry waiting to be sorted and photographed. She’d always enjoyed vintage items. It began as a child visiting her Grandma Watson's turn-of-the-century farm. An Edwardian lady from Kansas, Grandma Watson would leave her imprint on my mother’s life and her aesthetic tastes. Finding things that reminded her of my great-grandmother became the goal later in life. She started to acquire pieces of jewelry, some which just looked nice, and then began to do the research. It only took a few pieces before my mother was hooked. After many years the collection grew and my mother became a connoisseur of sorts when it came to vintage jewelry.

This is the honest truth, all of these items either came from thrift stores and consignment shops. My mother is a bit better when it comes to self-control than I am and I’ve rarely seen her buy anything for more than $15. Yes, building a costume jewelry collection is completely possible within a small budget and my mother's work is proof of that.

With my Mom's helpful advice you can start having a vintage jewelry collection to rival vintage enthusiast Dita Von Teese's as seen above.

So asking her to bear her tips, though I sure she kept a few to herself in order to wend off the competition. Here are the things my mother keeps in mind when she approaches the glass case at the thrift store.

!. She always looks for pieces that she likes. She never keeps her eyes out for pieces for gold or diamonds. She tells me nothing will make you more happy than a piece you like versus heavy junk filled with diamonds.

2. The stones, the metal, hardware and condition are the most important things. Never buy a piece that has replaced parts, including clasps and chains. If it looks as if it has been added on, it devalues the piece. Original is key!

3. Look for a signature. Anything with a signed piece has an increased value. That is why my mother carries a small magnifying glass in her purse. Designer names want to be seen, so it will visible somewhere on the back of the piece.

4. Designers use different signatures overtime. The same designer will not use the same signature in 1940s than in the 1960s.

5. When looking at a piece with stones prong settings are the best. Prongs help keeps stones secure and is proof of better craftsmanship so it adds to the value. Glue ends up yellowing and is a factor of cheap production.

6. When looking for pieces with stones, avoid pieces with similar shapes. The visual appeal is lost with pieces with the same shaped stones versus different shapes and sizes within a piece.

7. If the stones are cloudy, chipped, or missing move on. Try not to find pieces that need a lot of repair.

8. Always look for pieces where the stones are in variety of sizes, shapes, and colors.

We argued and majorly edited the final submissions. These are our favorites and the best of the best, but to give you the scope of the collection these pieces only surmise of 20% of her whole collection. Above is the entire collection, all the jewelry is stored in containers, organized to the brim within labeled boxes. Yeah, it was a long night.

Sadly, I cannot get to every designer, but I can brush upon the basics and proudly show some of our favorite pieces.

Pin and Earring Sets:

Pin and Earring Sets and Misc. Earrings

My absolute favorite earrings

Designer: Weiss

This green beauties were created by Albert Weiss. Started in 1942 with wide range of rhinestone, plastics, and enamel. Also had higher up pieces than the original costume jewelry. Strong collectible, made up with high quality Austrian crystals with timeless designs.

Designer: Schiaparelli

Started producing jewelry in the early 1930s. Even though the Schiaparelli went strong through the 30s and 40s. The brand went bust, but the clothing line and jewelry line went strong until the 1960s. She was rival to Coco Chanel and inspired by the surrealist artist of the time. Did not design the jewelry herself but designers that worked within her fashion house. Tiffany’s is also responsible for many of her popular pieces.

The absolute jems:

Designer: Kramer

This beautiful piece was designed by Kramer. Started in New York in 1943 and created high-end jewelry with the finest rhinestone. Prices ranged from $95-$250 (translated inflation from 1950s to 2011 is approximately $800 to $2,500). Good investment for any beginner collectors. This piece nearly illuminates in any light. When looking at Kramer pieces inspect for the Christian Dior by Kramer label. Kramer manufactured Dior designs. Hard to find, especially sets. Strangely enough our Kramer pin works perfectly with our Weiss earrings, though the shade of green is a bit darker.

Manufactured in: Austria

Many people undervalue “Made in Austria” pieces. They are very popular for beginner pieces, including in price, and has the best quality of stones. 1900 – present, the Swarovski is the probably the most well-known but not the only supplier. Look for “Made in Austria” or “Austria”

The most loved pin in the collection: The Weiss Snowflake.

Sweater Pins

Design: Circles

Circle Pins were began in the 1940s and became extremely popular in the 1950s and 1960s. The circle would symbolize the everlasting bond of friendship and love. These are easy to find in a variety of shapes, colors, sizes, and stones. It could also be used to pin scarves.

The Novelty

Designer: Sarah Coventry

1949-1984. Named after granddaughter by owner. Sold through home parties through direct selling method. Also part of jewelry provided to beauty pageants in the 70s as items to win. Because Sarah Coventry is the new collectible, it is the new vintage. It’s not exactly Weiss or Kramer, but in a few years it might be, especially in original packages and sets. Very affordable and common, we have several sets.

The Jungle

Art Deco

Marcasite – Marcasite is made from fools gold and was incredibly popular during the Victorian era through Art Nouveau. Most marcasite is glued and incorporates silvers and steels.

Plastics

Plastic: Lucite

Plastic/acrylic resin and most common in the 1940s. It is a close competitor to Bakelite plastic on the collecting scene. Often used to make usual characters, shapes, and novelty pins. Lucite is not only clear, but also seem milky or can give a moonstone appearance.

Plastic: Bakelite

My mother on Bakelite:

“It’s the wonder plastic of the 20s. Nearly everything was made out of Bakelite. I’m pretty sure if it wasn’t for Andy Warhol’s obsession with it then it wouldn’t have the fuss it has today by collectors. It’s helpful to remember that most genuine Bakelite has some age to it. It’s going to look it. There may be tiny nicks or chips. It’s the type of wear you wouldn’t expect to see in brand new plastic.

The weight is also a clue. Bakelite feels heavier than regular plastic. There’s a distinctive “clunk” sound when two bangle bracelets bump together on the wrist.

The most common test for genuineness in Bakelite is smell. Place the jewelry under running hot water. Then smell it. The real Bakelite has a distinctive formaldehyde odor. That’s because Bakelite is a combination of carbolic acid and formaldehyde.

Bakelite pieces are wonderful pieces to own. They can be whimsical colorful pieces. The bracelets are big with bold colors. I think bakelite is a bit overpriced, but there will always be a market for it. During their time they were inexpensive pieces of the hippie era. Lucite are also along the same lines as bakelite. They aren’t as collectible, but I found a few fun whimsical bright pieces that I added because I fell in love with the characters.”

The Unique

Manufactured in: Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco Era.

There are different ways of dating pieces by make and not just a signature. One thing these have in common is the tube clasp and C clasp. Patented in 1850 and used up until WWII. The Tube Clasp has a knob of the right pulls out to release the long pin. The locking C clasp without the spinning mechanism.

Manufactured: During WWII

Because of the limitation on metals and the unavailability to import precious metals and stones such as gold and crystals from Europe, most jewelry during WWII was made with sterling silver since it was found closer to home in countries such as Mexico. Most pieces will have a marking “sterling” and use of multi-colored paste or enamel stones.

To conclude, final advice from my mother.

"When you go into a store you should always find out what the owner, if he or she is there, what they collect. When you find pieces that you like see if they know the previous owner. It can give a brief history to that piece. They greatest joy I have is to hold the piece, to examine it take a close look at the condition, and feel its weight, put it to the light to see how the stones look. The joy of finding a piece at the right price is what makes collecting fun. You can always go on line and search for just about anything you want, but search for yourself close up in unique stores in your neighborhood or when you are on vacation to other towns or states, makes the fun of collecting much more rewarding.

Always try to research the designer, the time and place where they were created. It can give your pieces a history as to “why that design?” or who were their customers or the generation that wore those pieces.”

Thank you, Mom!

Finished Project: 1940's "Blouse H"

2011-07-18T08:00:00.000-04:00

Alright! All done! Woo! That wasn't as bad as I thought. I always think I'll get so much done over the summer and in the end I feel like a overheated slug. At least I'm getting somewhere on my summer sewing list.

It's a wonderful blouse but I should have made it with a better draping cotton or if I looked for a good rayon. It's is the first blouse I've ever made, so it's good to know for the next time. The polished cotton is too crisp for such a gathered shirt. Nevertheless, It's still beautiful! It just needs a good pull at the waist every so often. What I love most is I finally have a period correct blouse to go with my 1940's skirt made with Simplicity's 4044.

Found the perfect vintage jewelry set to go with the shirt. A la ma mere! (From my mother's collection). Too bad my bow is all sideways.

Have some days off so hopefully I can get some more sewing completed!

Designer Spotlight: Madame Gres

2011-07-09T08:00:00.000-04:00

Musees Bourdelle is exhibiting work from Madame Gres. I always get very interested in the time period in which I'm working in. 80 of her creations are on display, which is leaving me quite heartbroken that I won't be anywhere near Paris. Especially after viewing this beautiful video about the exhibit. My French is that advance but the curator speaks how her style retained minimalism while creating feminine silhouette that designers years later, such as Yves St. Laurent, used as inspiration. Her aesthetic use of pleats and gathers create an artistic sculpture that many still admire.

Madame Gres, or Germaine Émilie Krebs, was originally trained as a sculpture. She soon abandoned clay and instead use fabric to mold into stylish dresses in 1940s Paris. Her signature was cut out and geometric angles in her hems, necklines, and seams. Later, the designer became more accessible to the everyday seamstress by becoming a featured designer for Vogue's Couturier pattern line. As much as I love the 60s, I believe her best work was produced in the 1940s to early 50s, it reminds me of nighttime glamor and the best film noir seductresses.

Madame Grès - La couture à l'œuvre by paris_musees
ArtDaily

1940s Blouse Inspiration

2011-06-30T11:19:00.002-04:00

I'm getting over a bad heat stroke. I hope to be up and sewing by the weekend. :D Though this is an inspiration for blouses, I'm rather obsessed with the model's shoes. Looks like the Derek Lam platform flats from the Spring.

Sewing Project: 1940s "Blouse H"

2011-06-27T08:00:00.000-04:00

I'm in a vintage state of mind. I took a pretty long break from anything vintage from my sewing repertoire and now I've got a crave for the 1940s. I'm in a middle of a very spoiling four day weekend and been doing odd jobs around the house with a constant marathon of Film Noir streaming on my Netflix. So, naturally enough I wanted to dig deep into my vintage sewing boxes for anything that caught my mood. I'm pretty certain I want to sew a blouse. See, I've invested so much time and material to dresses, for days I really don't feel up to a dress I really don't have much to wear except a pair of jeans and my Guggenheim Museum souvenir shirt. Really. I'm not kidding you.

A while ago, Debi from Vintage Fashions from the Past posted this 1940's catalog expert and I fell instantly in love with blouse H. How could you not, it's cute, playful, young, and elegant. Basically everything I love about the 1940s. This is why I fell in love with blogging, the endless inspiration we sewers give to each other!

I've been keeping this pattern safe just for this one project. See, when I first saw her blog back last winter I immediately searched high and low for a pattern I could easily interprete into Blouse H. Version B with a bow collar will make a nice outcome, don't you think?

Add a yard or so of this beautiful polished cotton and I think we got ourselves a winner!

Finished Project: Cynthia Rowley 1970's Maxi Dress

2011-06-25T11:59:00.003-04:00

I tried taking pictures last Saturday but I was dissatisfied with them since the sun bleached out the print. Then it rained all week and as soon as I got the least bit of light showers I ran to the tree and snapped some pictures. Let me tell you, it's age the color has faded and photographing this print in it's true colors is hard. But here it is, at long last.

It's a nice dress. Not exactly my favorite of the bunch. It was easy to make, but the fitting was a bit tricky. It sagged a bit in the back so I had to take in the zipper more than I wanted to, which caused it to get too tight, and I had to let out the sides. But, alas, it's perfect. I do alterations all day, last thing I want to do them is at home.

These are the pictures from last Saturday at my Dad's garden. I love my actions, thought the filter looked very retro. lol.

I can see myself wearing it again, but it is tres casual. Maybe more so around the house and running to the grocery store. Not something I'd wear all the time.

The Sewing Machine (Out)dustry

2011-06-21T09:30:00.003-04:00

A coworker of mine was quite gloomy last week when she would walk into our sewing room. She explained to us she bought a Singer at Walmart a month ago and it recently broke. She brought it into a Sew and Vac, nearly 45 minutes away, for servicing. She was told the manual labor involved would cost more to repair it than she bought it for. She asked us why Singer has the reputation among seamstress as the quintessential classic and why anyone would recommend the brand. I replied her with a very short, yet complicated answer.

Would I recommend a Singer? Absolutely! Would I recommend one made after the 1950s? No.

As a seamstress, I'm rather upset about cheaply machines can be purchased for. I bought this antique card a while ago and I placed it above my 1949 Singer 401A to remind me what my machine stands for. These machines were purposed more than for a set of curtains. They had to made well, they had to last and do a quality job, since once upon a pre-Made In China time lives really depended on it. Singers did not get to populate nearly ever American home with a cheaply made machine. Artisans would decorate these machines, carpenters would carve and build the tables they would rest in, electricians to convert treadles with motors, salespeople would sell these at the Singer store, and mechanics would come to your house to service your machine.

Sewing machines were an industry, one where people supported without knowing just by buying a machine. And because they were so well made they could last decades with a proper oiling once and a while. So where did it go? When did we get these faux Singers made with plastic parts?

In 1910, a cost of a dress was around $200. Around that time you would be lucky if you had more than your day ensemble and a church dress. In the 1940s, a well made dress would be around $70. This was in the time where 95% of American apparel was made in the US and if you lived in New York you could be certain it came out of the garment district. It wasn't exactly the material that made it cost so much, it was labor. The time it took making the garment is what created the price. So you can see how people chose sewing at home instead.

Outsourcing and low trade tariffs created a market full of disposable clothes. Industry was pushed out and it became cheaper to buy clothes than to make it. It's a strange opposite that my mother never really understood. She often tells me how inexpensive fabrics used to be as I search Joanns for supplies that are budget friendly.

In the end I went home and found my least used sewing machine. A beautiful 1921 Singer with a shuttle bobbin, motorized in the 1930s, with original accessories and in a wooden case. I never used it because I am so completely satisfied with my 401A (but that's another post) so I decided to gift it with deserving home. I thought I would be more hard pressed giving it away, but in the end I was happy I was gifting it with a new life of use than sitting in my house like a museum piece. But the whole exchange was a just a small reminder on the way the industry was, and I hope one day it shall be again.

Sewing Project: Cynthia Rowley 1970's Maxi Dress

2011-06-15T09:06:00.004-04:00

I'm taking the plunge. It seems I've been on a Cynthia Rowley kick lately. I'm just glad Simplicity is coming out with some fantastic patterns lately. I can remember a few years back where I wouldn't buy anything at the dollar pattern sales, wishing for some hipper clothes. This pattern has been in my stash for a while. I always assumed I would make the short version of it, but I'm glad I've expanded my horizon a bit. I'm using an old 1970s bedsheet that I picked up at the thrift store for a $1.99. I'm using a zipper from a bulk sale I got on ebay quite a while ago that ended up being .70 a zipper. So in all this dress is costing me less than $5.

To Maxi or Not to Maxi?

2011-06-14T08:00:00.001-04:00

As I was clearing out my room I found one of my vintage pieces from the late 1960s set aside and pinned to be hemmed at knee length. I don't even remember doing it but it's only recently I even played with the idea of a maxi dress. Okay, get ready, I use to hate maxi dresses. They reminded me of the long gathered nightgowns grannies wear. It does nothing for the figure and makes the wearer look like a giant potato sack. So you can see why before I might have pinned this to be hemmed knee length.

However, I might have had a change of heart. Long isn't as bad as I thought. The style of this particular dress chic and when I need a little pop of color I can just jump into this ensemble. It feel very casual while still being vintage. When I go to classes in vintage people think I'm going out special right after class, as the days of dressing up are long gone and going to class in a pair of Sponge-Bob Square-Pants pajamas are the norm.

You know why it might be the next best thing to slice bread?

You can wear it if you haven't shaved your legs.

Sorry, writing a senior thesis tromps trivial vanity routines. Don't make me even start about my eyebrows.

It was pretty big last summer and I'm wondering if the style will come back this summer. What's your take on maxi dresses? Something you think should be revived or would you rather it stay in the polyester decade of the 1970s?

Recycled Men's Shirt into a Summer Blouse Tutorial

2011-06-09T09:04:00.004-04:00

I promised you a tutorial, so here it is. It has 35 steps, but don't be intimidated, it's mostly because I took pictures of every little step--even pining! I published it on Instructables.com, have a look! Enjoy!

Recycled Men's Shirt into a Summer Blouse

2011-06-08T08:11:00.003-04:00

Well, it's suppose to be 105°F today. I have to work, but I'd rather spent it going to Split Rock like I did last year during the heat wave. I don't have a lot of summer tops, I usually wear dresses for hot, humid days like these. So I set off in the attempt of finding some tops I could wear at the thrift store, but alas, I could find none that really went well with my style and wardrobe. Then it hit me, let me recycle a men's button-up shirt into a nice top! I think it worked out very well. I had to go with a darker color since I needed long sleeves for the additional fabric, there was not a lot of light colors options in long sleeve shirts at the thrift store.

I kept nearly all the features of the shirt, thus making it in under an hour or two. I think it reminds me a lot of what my grandmother wore camping and lounging outdoors in the 1950s.

Even made my own bias tape!

Tomorrow I'll post a tutorial to recycle a oversized, unwearable men's shirt into a cute retro summer top!

Subscriber Giveaway! Colette Pattern Gift Certificate Winner!

2011-06-04T08:00:00.004-04:00

Thanks for all the comments on the giveaway! And the winner is....!

Congratulations to Linda, who posted what she's most excited to sew for the summer:

"I have a lot of dresses in my queue at the moment (just took up sewing), that I can't wait to tackle (I'm a fellow student, but my semester is still going!), but I think I am most excited about Butterick 5490. It looks like a nice summery dress that will look cute enough for backyard barbeques and trips to the beach and will pair nicely with a denim jacket at night."

So Linda, please leave your email and I'll get in touch with you about your gift!

Subscriber Giveaway! Colette Pattern Gift Certificate

2011-05-31T08:00:00.005-04:00

$25 Gift Certificate to Colette Patterns!

We've hit the 60 subscriber mark, and while I wanted to do a giveaway at 50 I was too busy in the midst of a horrific finals week. If any college students subscribe to my blog you might know how stressful it is and everything else is pretty irrelevant. There could be a closeout sale at Mood and I could care less. Anyway, let's think of it as a happy summer/post memorial weekend/more than 50 subscribers giveaway! Colette Patterns have been on the indie sewing pattern list for a few years now and they just keep on getting better! I'm constantly drooling over projects made with the Sensha and the Crepe. For my college budget Colette Patterns is a special buy. One made with a wince of "did I really just press the checkout button?" with a tinge of "I can't wait to make that cute top" excitement. Is there any others? Well, I'm here to be your Fairy Sewing Godmother. The giveaway is for a $25 gift certificate. I was going to do a giveaway for the Violette pattern, but I thought that wasn't fair to others who might want the Crepe instead. Or the Ginger. Or the Nutmeg.

So, here are the rules.

1. Comment below stating what you're excited most about summer and what one project you'll like to sew for the season.
2. And you must be a subscriber. Or subscribe before posting.

The winner will be chosen by random. Contest closes Friday at 12pm Eastern. Winner will be announced on Saturday. Open to US and International.

As American as a Red Jeep

2011-05-30T08:00:00.002-04:00

Happy Memorial Day. Last night my father invited me to a BBQ up in the mountains. I got my kitchen supplies and drove as fast as I could. There is something about the mountains, the air is crisper and the colors are more vibrant. I made my spicy barbecue bean burgers and an anti-pasta salad. We had the traditional corn on the cob, which we left on the grill too long and blackened on the bottom. I took some shots of the farm valley between my father's home and my mothers on the drive back, I just missed the sunset but it still is just as beautiful at twilight. Soon, around July and August, the fields will be lite with fireflies and I promise when it happens I'll take plenty of pictures.

A new sewing project coming up soon!

Finished Project: Cynthia Rowley Summer Dress

2011-05-27T08:00:00.001-04:00

So, everything is unpacked and I'm back to work. I can officially call it summer. However, most of my peers won't call it summer until Memorial Day. What a perfect time to start on some cotton, floral frocks! I just finished Simplicity's 2250 by Cynthia Rowley. I did a few adjustments, such as doing a muslin lining. Also, I omitted the tie, since I thought it might be uncomfortable sitting on it. All the fabric manipulation in the top don't really show well in the white cotton. I think it would show better in a dark color where you can see the contrast. It's intermediate, at best. The top takes a bit of finesse doing all those tucks and puzzle pieces of a top, but if you have patience and can follow directions it might be the best challenge to a experienced beginner.

Oh, and there's pockets!

There is a great detail in the back with the ruffles. You might be able to tell that I only attached the zipper to the underlining. It's something we do at work all the time when there is a light overlay like organza or chiffon. It keeps it nice and light.

This is a better picture that I've used before and it shows the details a bit better. I got the fabric from fabrics.net. It's very light, thus the nude muslin underlayer sewn separately.

Happy Summer!

The Golden Era of Flight

2011-05-22T20:11:00.003-04:00

My father's girlfriend flew for Pan Am back in the day. Her main connection was New York to Paris, before the 1980s hijack, and she tells me stories all the time about the glamor of it all. In high school I wanted to be a flight attendant and work the New York to Moscow connection (I still have big hopes Moscow will become one of the coolest cities on the map...) but she told me the new realities of the underpaid, overwork shifts flight attendants face and just how plain crummy the flight industry has become. That dream evaporated in a snap. So, was I excited to see one of the new shows this fall to be centered around the days before pat downs, when bags checked for free (liquids included), and you could always ask your attractive stewardess for more peanuts!

Sewing on the way, just finished unpacking my stuff.

Finished Project: Lisette Passport Dress

2011-05-10T08:30:00.001-04:00

When Simplicity came out with the Lisette collection I rushed to the store. Joy! Simple pattern designs with multitude of options! Has my name written all over it! To make it even better they've introduced their own fabric line to correspond with dresses on the pattern envelope! I knew the first pattern I'd want to work with was the Passport dress. It certainly was the best dress to make after my long absence from sewing. It literally only took a day to sew and only needed to do one minor tweak in the shoulders. This is probably the best dress to sew for absolute beginners who want to make something fast, easy, and stylish and to the experienced seamstress who wants to do some no-nonsense 'fluff' sewing between complicated projects. It's a flattering style to all. I highly recommend it.

Before cutting out.

Buddy loves getting his picture taken!

I traveled upstate for the weekend, a little mini-break before finals. Saturday I drove up into the mountains to visit my hermit of a father and his new companion, Buddy. He is the friendliest four-legged creature I've ever come across. We went for a stroll down the private drive and it wasn't long before he was pulling me across the road into the neighbors' pond.

Lets go for a swim!

Buddy made it very clear when he shook out his soft, chocolate coat and sprayed me with pond muck that he loves swimming. The dress is lying in my laundry basket in need of a good cleaning.

Happy Mother's Day

2011-05-08T09:00:00.001-04:00

I'd like to say some amazing starlet is my inspiration to love vintage, but it isn't true, it's always been my mom. We've had some tough times. After my parents' divorce I rebelled a bit, dyed my hair pink, fell into the wrong crowd, skipped school, stole a car, you know, the usual. I ended up living with my dad, away from the bad influences. However, he couldn't take in to school on time so I'd have to go over to my mom's house in the early morning. I'd sleep on her couch until it was time to get ready, she'd fix me breakfast and drop me off 5 minutes before first bell (because the least amount of time I was in school, the better!). I don't know why, but the simple act of just being there for that hour before school tied us as tightly back together like our differences never happened.

First Photo: Mom on the far right in her own creation. Second Photo: See, even parents go through an awkward hair dye stage.

She was the one that worked long into the nights on my Sailor Moon costume. Tolerated me bringing down the curtains to cut up in millions of pieces with her rotary blade on my draping binges, only to buy more curtains the following week.

I get my nerd factor from somewhere! To this day my mom still wishes she had her patch dress. Maybe would omit the blue stockings this time? Second photo: Doesn't that say college when your birthday cake is served in a pan on top of a cookie sheet?

She always let me experiment and express myself. I don't remember her saying once in my childhood "you cannot leave the house wearing that" and always humored my outrageous style options. In 9th grade, after being obsessed with John Hughes/Brat Pack movies she went on eBay and bought me three vintage swatches and tacky leg warmers.

I'm glad to say my mom is my best friend. I wouldn't be the person (or the fashion blogger) I am today without her! Happy Mother's Day, Mom!

Swedish Hasbeens

2011-05-06T10:41:00.004-04:00

At the Metropolitan Museum of Art at the Cloisters.
Bag: Cambridge Satchel Company
Dress: Thrifted
Shoes: Hasbeens!

I've lusted after Sweedish Hasbeens for more than two years after countless style bloggers have worn them. How was a college student afford a pair of awesomeness at $239? I left it in my style depository for maybe when I had a career and student loan debt-free. The price tag was pretty steep for me (think of how many fabrics and patterns could be bought for $239???). However, I still watched, maybe thinking that over the winter maybe they would be on some ridiculous sale that only existed in my mind. However, only the unusual, eccentric pairs were ever on sale. You know, the lime green pair? Even on sale they were way out of my budget.

I don't remember what prevailed me to look on Amazon, but I did. A pair of Sky High Hasbeen clogs, in my size, in a nice color for only $99. You're still probably thinking that's expensive. I was, until I remembered I had a $50 Amazon credit from their buyback program (sometimes being a college student has it's perks, you're constantly selling textbooks and supplements at the end of each semester for any pocket change).

So yeah, got a pair of Hasbeens for $50. AWESOME!

And they are! I practically wear them everywhere! I was hesitant about the Sky High, I really wanted to find a pair in High or Super High. But believe me, Sky High isn't as high as the pictures online seem. They are very reasonable to walk in. I spent a whole day at the Cloisters without much trouble, albeit a hill or two to get down was a bit of a feat but I'm getting better at it. I feel like my imaginary wardrobe is finally coming to fruition.

Going to sew on my Lisette Passport dress. Yes, SEW!

Summer Break

2011-05-05T14:16:00.004-04:00

Just stopping by to let you know I am not dead. Forgetful? Yes. Please don't hold a grudge. First off it's the end of the semester and I am beginning my senior thesis. Secondly, I ended up loosing my newly purchased package of sewing needles at school. I had a zipper to put into the Cynthia Rowley dress and the needle breaks, as it always does a few steps away from finishing, and it's been sitting in the unfinished pile since then. Lastly, I've been knitting the Briar Rose Sweater. I believe I've knitting to just above the waist. Slowly and steady, I suppose.

I do intend to get back to blogging, not so much immediately, maybe a few post here and there. When I am done with finals I hope to get back to sewing and being more consistent. I intend to accomplish much over the summer and use up my wool stash for the fall.

No worries, I intend to continue as usual very soon!

Designer Spotlight: Balenciaga

2011-04-08T09:42:00.005-04:00

There are things I miss working in a costume archive. Surprisingly, I miss the smell of mothballs and rotting, moldy fabric. I miss how cold and dark it would be on a hot, summer day. But what I miss the most is the amazing surprise each box would be as uncovered some amazing suit made in Paris or a box just overflowing with heirloom styled petticoats. Do you know how much restraint it took me not to try anything on? lol! Yes, big no-no indeed!

The San Fransisco Museum is having a exhibition on the great couturier Balenciaga. Now, I honestly only knew of this designer in high school from the infamous Balenciaga motorcycle bag that all my friends covereted. Now everyone has a copy hanging from their arm. It wasn't until my great discovery of couture that I realized how beautiful his work was.

Credit

Updates!

2011-04-06T13:18:00.003-04:00

Back from spring break and now overwhelmed with work. I have three major papers to write this week and not much on the sewing front has been completed. I've been knitting a bit, a row here and there. Sometimes I get quite a lot done in a sitting, but then sometimes I maybe knit just a row before my hands get tired. Though, over break I was super excited to finish up my first ball and move onto the second. Progress!

I have been sewing a bit. I didn't want to announce it since the last two sewing projects haven't turned out so well. I've just been so stressed with school I wanted to abandon the vintage and work on something a bit more contemporary. I have the best time with Simplicity patterns and I've wanted to work on this dress since it came out. I gave you a few hints so hopefully it's an easy guess what pattern it is.

I also ran to the store over the weekend for the Simplicity sale. I've been dying to get the Lisette patterns for the summertime. My personal favorite is the Passport dress, which only takes 2.5 yards of 45 inch wide material for the dress (saver!). To my fantastic surprise I found that Joann actually carries Lisette fabrics, the same fabrics featured on the pattern envelopes! Unfortunately, it was not on sale and is $9 a yard so I could not afford it or else I would have gotten the green twill featured for the jacket. I did find this cheery yellow print in the Quilting section that has a very nice soft drape, not at all as stiff as the other quilting fabrics, that I'm sure will make a very nice summer dress. It was $5 a yard, with a 40% off coupon, so I got it for $8! Lucky enough to have a yellow invisible zipper in my stash too!

Hope you're having nice springtime weather, here in New York we're still wearing our winter coats! Brrr...:D

Yarn Love

2011-03-30T17:38:00.000-04:00

Knitting all day! I'm so happy I learned to knit. <3

The Borgias

2011-03-29T16:33:00.003-04:00

This week is Spring Break, and of course it has to be around 30F degrees outside. I was planning on going to the Met this week with my mom but she refuses to go if it suppose to snow tomorrow, which apparently it foretasted to. So I've been stuck inside cleaning out my overflowing closet, knitting my Briar Rose sweater, and sewing something for spring. So far my last two sewing projects have turned into failures. There were so many errors that I just gave up. Has that ever happened to you? Anyway, I'm taking a break from sewing huge projects and just focusing on all the alterations that have been piling up this year.

As I sew I've been watching ridiculous amounts of television. This April comes The Borgias, a original period series on Showtime. Mario Puzo said to have based his film classic The Godfather after studying the Borgias family when he visited Italy. I liked Showtime's The Tudors, but I didn't love it. I'm not a fan of watching serial adultery, though it was the supporting character lives that hooked me into the series. The Borgias, I feel has a hidden glimpse into the secret lives of the clergy in 1400 Italy, and like the Tudors, I am hooked by the lives of the children and their role into his father's succession as Pope. And I have to say in contrast to the Tudors, there is a huge improvement on the period costumes.

New Haircut!

2011-03-20T12:08:00.003-04:00

So, the last post was for a reason. I decided to cut my bangs and I LOVE them. I think they are very Jane Birkin-esque than Anna Karina. They are so stylish and fun. They are very high maintenance since I have curly hair, I often don't style them when I have a 8:30 AM class and pining them back is a little awkward. I hope you appreciate my roommate's side of the room, she an enthusiastic poster thief.

Inspiration: 1960 Bangs

2011-03-19T19:02:00.004-04:00

Unfortunately the jacket I'm working on needs a lining. I ordered some and even paid extra for express shipping so I could get it before the weekend and finished it. Well, it came of Friday, but the fabrics I received were for someone else! So, alas, the projects is taking way longer than I wanted to.

I'm taking French at college and we're finally in the period which we have to speak French all the time. I'm very skilled at reading and writing but I need to improve my pronunciation. I've been watching French films and listening to French music in my free time. I see one similarity between my favorite 60s French icons...bangs! Fringe, depending which side of the world you're on. It's the easiest 60s look for long hair girls, though if you have curly hair like me it might be the most time consuming.

J. Crew: Thomas Mason Mill

2011-03-16T13:40:00.005-04:00

The annual internship and job fair is just around the corner at SUNY Purchase. In preparation the career development office holds events to prepare students. Today it was "What Not to Wear" present by J. Crew. Unfortunately, I was not the lucky student to win a gift certificate, but I was pleasantly surprised by this video one of the presenters showed us. He really stressed the importance of appreciating quality when purchasing suits and business attire. Seriously, a man after my own heart! I really love this video and it gave us an insight into Thomas Mason Mill, the place to go for Egyptian cotton. As my free time gets cut back a bit this week, I might as well post something sewing-centric. Enjoy!

Inspiration: Brady's Women

2011-03-15T02:06:00.003-04:00

I'm a college student, but I also intern at a photographic archive with a vast collection of Civil War memorabilia, so I am very familiar with the work of Matthew Brady. In 1856 he opened a photography studio in the heart Washington D.C. and photographed some of the most important people of that time. I go through stacks of Civil War officers and generals, even copies of several Lincoln portraiture, all the while noticing the ridiculous appraisal amounts in the worksheets. Then I come across a fantastic carte de visite of a lovely actress in the most fantastic dress, my heart flutters for a moment, but then it stops cold when I see that the appraisal for the photograph is nearly a quarter of the estimate worth of an average man. After reviewing the Brady-Handy collection on the Library of Congress I assume from the rarity of women in the collection that these female portraitures would be worth more? Not so much.

Believe me, this list seems long but I've actually edited it down quite a bit. Of course, I picked some from the fantastic dress details like pleating or large cameos, but wanted to show mothers and daughters, female performers, and even women with short hair. One of my personal favorite details is of one woman's finger in a book, a long traditional gesture for women in Art History representing literacy and education. As we are mid-way of Women's History Month, and the fact I have to be in work in five hours, I bring you some of Matthew Brady's women.

Inspiration: 1970's Fashions

2011-03-13T13:02:00.003-04:00

Asked me three months ago about fashion from the 1970s I would have told you it was probably one of the worst eras for fashion, and the 80s a close second. My heart belonges to the 60s, it always will, but lately I find myself looking at Vogue scans from the 1970s at Youthquakers and nearly loving each spread. There are some that I like for aesthetics, the color or the beautiful setting, or just for it's eccentric quality. I've probably been misguided by reruns of That 70s Show and bad polyester leisure suits I'm always finding in the thrift store. Maybe I'm realizing not everything was that...tacky. These are some of my favorite scans that I've saved in my inspiration folder on my desktop.

Off to study passe compose.

1911-2011 Triange Shirtwaist Factory Fire

2011-03-10T08:00:00.000-05:00

On March 25th it will be the 100th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire. It's one of the most important events in American history as it changed how the government regulates the labor industry. I'm sadden how many girls were locked in and taken by the flames, how many of them forced to jump from the high rise building to escape the fire, often holding hands as they leaped. Those that survived the jump would only die days later. Since the bodies were burned beyond recognition the families would identify the bodies by small details such as a ring or a darn in a stocking. The youngest girl to die was only eleven years old.

I think it's a very strong idea for Women's History Month coincides with this event as it was a majority of women unions that protested for change before they even had a right to vote. I'd always been morosely fascinated by the Triangle Shirtwaist fire. As seamstresses I think we can all identify with the young victims of the fire and those who fought for reforms. Because of the consequential changes made by the government after the fire we all have a safer job. Unfortunately at a terrible, horrifying price.

Warning: The images are extremely graphic.

The Aftermath:

HBO will broadcast a documentary about the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire on March 25th, the 100th anniversary of the fire.

Thift Finds

2011-03-05T15:47:00.004-05:00

I've hadn't had the best week on the sewing front, nor in my academic career. I only have a few hours a day to myself and they are usually filled with homework and assignments for my internship. I've taken a bit of a hiatus on the navy dress, spring is quickly approaching and I realize I have piles of fabric I have a huge enthusiasm to start on. I realize I don't really sew anything unless I'm excited to finish.

I made my way upstate to visit my mom. I decided to pamper myself and went to the newly renovated thrift store that happens to be three times bigger. I found some great items! Apologizes, they have not made their way to the dry cleaners yet and most of them need some alterations.

I've been hearing everywhere that the 70s are coming back...eekk! But I can see some of the styles working including this long sleeve tricolor double knit dress, that I'll probably make into elbow length, and this chiffon overdress, which I'll make into more of a bell sleeve by removing the elastic and sewing gussets to increase width.

70s tricolor knit dress: $4
70s chiffon overdress: $4

I found this adorable 60s nightgown that I'm determined to make into a house dress for the summer by hemming it and using the excess to make a belt. I found a bunch of nice vintage sheeting but I liked this print the most. I'm going to salvage the sheet and make into a nice maxi dress for summer.

60s nightgown: $4
70s sheet: $2

This was my favorite find. This is a gorgeous 1960s wool suit from B. Altman & Co. It has the best tailoring I have ever seen! I'm just drooling over the bound buttonholes. The skirt fits a bit snug, as I always find about vintage waists, but the jacket is about two sizes too large and have to be taken in.

1960s B. Altman Suit: $9

Any recent thrift finds you'd like to share?

Briar Rose Vintage Knit Along: Gauge & Resizing

2011-03-01T08:00:00.000-05:00

I received my KnitPicks yarn last Friday. They are a beautiful set of eight skeins of Sea Foam Comfort Cotton. I finished my swatch during the Oscars (and we saw a sighting of Charles James!). I was quite excited to see that it was a perfect swatch (almost!). Unfortunately, I haven't done much working on my navy dress, I sewed for 20 minutes today before needing to take a nap. Things have been very hectic lately, I was suppose to go upstate to the Catskills to visit my parents for the weekend but my mother got into car accident, my car ended up needing a jump but is currently locked between two cars in the parking lot, and my roommate threw a birthday party which I helped co-host before the RAs shut it down (oh, the Fridays at college!). Now the week has begun and I'm back working at the archives and studying for GREs.

Also purchased a US 2 (3.00mm) needle from KnitPicks, very nice and flexible!

I did a 4x4 inch swatch with adding an extra few stitches on the width and height for a better reading without it curling up as the stockinette stitch tends to do.

The swatch is perfect, 6.5 stitch an inch, however, instead of 10 inches a row there is 8 stitch a row per inch. This is why we do a swatch!

By Gum, By Golly suggest using a sweater to formulate the measurement needed for the resizing. Luckily, I had a sweater much like the Briar Rose, but much of my measurements are different than the pattern, mostly from the length and the bust.

The original 1940 sweater pattern is a for a "34 bust. I have a natural measurement of "36. I was automatically confused when I measured my sweater and the bust measurement was "32. I imagine the 20% nylon and 80% wool blend creates a stretch which I know my cotton/acrylic yarn will not, however I will be keeping a negative ease of 1 inch to have some form-fitting. How do you figure out how to resize the required measurements with a sweater with a stretch? I figured out that I needed to add 3 inches to my measurement of 32 to get 35 (remember, I'm subtracting 1 inch from 36 for negative ease). I did some basic high school arithmetic and found that 3 inches of 35 is roughly 10% when rounded. I simply added 10% of each of measurements taken for the resizing.

Now I'm on to the next part. The Mad Libs!

Fashion Spotlight: Mary Quant

2011-02-23T12:31:00.004-05:00

Ernestine Carter once said "It is given to a fortunate few to be born at the right time, in the right place, with the right talents. In recent fashion there are three: Chanel, Dior and Mary Quant". I think we all know how obsessed I am with the 60s. It was my mother who would introduce me to the fashions she loved as a young adult, including the wonders of Carnaby Street and the stylish designer Mary Quant. I believe Mary Quant was a revolutionary and doesn't get enough recognition for her fashion innovations. It's believed she was the first to create the most famous invention of the 60s: the miniskirt! Mary titled it after her favorite vehicle, the mini. She also popularized hot pants and patterned tights (where would we be without those!). She is the essential designer of the 1960s that mixed pop culture with fashion.

She popularized the twiggy look, the oversized beret and narrow silhouettes.

How about bringing the large bertha collar back?

The dropped pleated skirt?

Op-Art fabrics, empire waist, and pointed collar.

The tunic dress.

Here she is with Vidal Sassoon as he creates his iconic haircut.

Did I also mention she was a business woman extraordinaire? She also had her fashion line at more affordable department stores like JCPenny.

She also did a Butterick line. A lot of her patterns near copies of her high fashion designs as worn by Patti Boyd with the Rolling Stones.

A shoe line?

Cosmetics too!

There isn't much about Mary Quant on the internet besides a few sparse pictures of her and a few of her designs. Her brand was later bought out by a Japanese company and her name licensed out, in the example of Mary Quant cosmetics, which I heard is still popular in Japan but is no longer affiliated with Mary Quant the designer. This video from the V&A is a great summary of what it was like to work for Mary Quant back in the 1960s and how it influenced a generation. He also talks about the make and wear of Mary Quant designs, which is interesting to know her methods of construction. There is also this great video on Mary's fashion show at the Hotel Crillon in 1963, which is at a long, unedited 24 minutes, but many great scenes of 60s socialite models and of the catwalk.

1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12

Briar Rose Vintage Sweater Knit-Along!

2011-02-21T17:36:00.007-05:00

I must be out of my mind. Why do I always assume I can handle more than I can? I've been disappointed that I've missed out of all the sew-alongs that seemed to be going on the last two months so when Casey posted this past weekend on a vintage sweater knit-along over at By Gum, By Golly I was very interested. When I saw the vintage sweater they'd be knitting, I was sold! I'm sure between my internship and midterms that I'm going to need a little stress relieving knitting. I just hope that between everything on my plate I'll actually finish it.

Super cute, right? This knitting pattern is available free at A Rarer Borealis.

To be honest, I'm a little intimidated. The pattern requires lightweight yarn. Last year I made a kimono for my newborn niece with lightweight yarn and it took forever! And it was for a baby! I just can't imagine how long this will take. I just have to remember that knitting is slow by the foot but fast by the mile.

I might have become a bit of a yarn snob, which is a bit of a paradox because I'm fine with using synthetic fabrics for sewing vintage clothes. I feel in the wintertime I'm fine wearing synthetics, but in the spring and summer it must be 100% natural with the heat waves New York seems to get every July. The swatch is from Knit Picks. I was amazed about how inexpensive the cotton fingering yarn is over at Knit Picks. Today I picked up 8 skeins of Sea Foam Comforting Finger Yarn at $2.99 a skein with an amazing 218 yards per ball. Fantastic, right?! I really wanted something breathable for spring.

I quite excited because this will be the first thing I will knit for myself, let alone a sweater!

Fluxus Friday

2011-02-19T15:29:00.005-05:00

My friend Samantha, who runs the HV Art Owl blog (which she promises to get into full motion once she's back in the Hudson Valley) and her friend Chloe run the Purchase College's Fluxus Friday event. For those who don't know, Fluxus was a popular genre of blending different art mediums in the 1960s. It's a combination of different artwork submitted by students and run by students. The choice of music for the night was a student grouped band that played their own compositions and covered classic 80s hits such as "Girls Just Want to Have Fun"--of course with a bit of a rock twist. The art submitted was very diverse such as a very Hannah Hoch inspired paper mache canvas and a hanging sculpture using burlap and rusty metal chains. The gallery allowed visitors to create their own art as well. The gallery had one wall covered in paper so the students could write poems, create drawings in comic storyboards, and express themselves. Most of the food was gone and there was always someone with a pencil to the wall most of the night so I think that's an indicator it was pretty successful.

I did not remember to gather the artist names, if you wish to be credited leave a comment below. Apologies!

Finished: 1960's Olive Slenderette

2011-02-16T14:16:00.003-05:00

It's finished! I actually finished this Sunday but I didn't have anyone to take pictures for me since it seems every break I have between classes is when my friends and roommates have class. I was kind of worried that the fabric was too light but it ended up working great! It's one of my favorite projects so far. I'm in love with button detail and think it gives it a nice vintage touch but still modern. I can see this easily working into my intern wardrobe in the fall.

It's a false opening, almost like a tuck. It took a little bit of brainstorming how to do it since the instructions were missing, I probably accidentally left them at home.

I'm excited to start on some spring clothes now!

Supply Re-stock

2011-02-12T15:00:00.006-05:00

I had a little delay the last few weeks when the zipper I bought for the Slenderette was too short. I don't have access to a fabric store nearby and going out of my way to Manhattan for a zipper is very unproductive, so I have to mail out for my sewing supplies. Last week I bought a great lot of 50 vintage zippers at different colors and sizes for $30. That's 60 cents a zipper! A bargain!

Also stocked up on cover buttons, especially for the spring fabrics I just purchased.

Getting my Slenderette buttons ready so I can finish up this project!

Spring Fabrics Haul!

2011-02-10T13:34:00.004-05:00

Even though it's 18°F windchill I'm constantly thinking about what I'll wear in the spring. My desire is to focus more on separates than dresses this season and I thought I should get a move on it as soon as I sew up my last few winter fabrics. I placed a order through Fabrics.com and I am pleasantly surprised, the fabric is really gorgeous. It was everything I thought it would be and more. There is nothing worse than opening a package and the fabric is much different than how it seems online. The white, blue, and pink shirting fabrics has a very nice sheen almost like cotton sateen. The "Cottage Floral" fabric is very soft, delicate, and very shabby-chic. The cornflower broadcloth is absolutely lovely and crisp. The sage poplin is a smooth and has a nice, tight weave. Overall, I'm very pleased. Fabrics.com shipped it out quickly and I literally received it two days after. Plus, they give you 37" a yard instead of 36". I'm very excited to start on it.

A Little Bowl of Joy

2011-02-09T17:42:00.004-05:00

Isn't that a cute stereograph card? I don't have a cook, nor a husband, so I suppose I have to 'fend for myself. I grew up in a household where our major appliance was the microwave. My father knew two things, how to boil water and barbecue and if my mother was cooking you'd better make plans at being at a friend's house for dinner fast. I took Home Economics in high school with the hope to break the habit of living off of TV dinners. Unfortunately, it was a very basic class shaved down by budget cuts. Now at college I have a meal plan but with only 3 semesters to go I'm going to have to start depending on myself for meals. One of my New Years Resolutions was to learn 2-3 new meals a month. ~~Budget~~ basic meals.

Since it's been so cold here in New York, a 18° windchill, I thought I should make some comfort food to warm myself up. I didn't make it with bacon since my roommates are vegetarians.

Voila! Yum, yum! My roommates attacked it as soon it came out of the oven. This is a really easy recipe to customize, instead of just cheddar I added some parmesan. I used my new "How to Cook Everything" app for the recipe (best $5 investment ever, I never walk aimlessly through the supermarket anymore!).

credit

The Zen of Couture

2011-02-07T11:07:00.005-05:00

I'm waiting, rather impatiently, for my sewing notions shipment to arrive so not a lot of sewing has been occurring lately. I seem to be a little obsessed with couture since the Charles James post. While I can't post all the episodes of Signe Chanel (and if you haven't watched it, click the link stat!) I did find this great video on the process of sewing a couture garment at Chanel and it really resonated with me. It begins with a sketch, the atelier drapes the design and pins the seams together just like we saw on the Charles James muslins. What evoked so much emotion was how the atelier would reflect on her muslin. She would rotate the dressform at different angles and then observe it through a mirror with so much thought and attention that it really moved me. I know for certain all dressmakers have that habit of looking at their dressform and it's nice to think we are connected with couture seamstresses by that universal habit. Sometimes we can become frustrated with our muslins. I know there have been plenty of times where I've wanted to throw my dressform out the window. However, I can't help but feel a rather tranquility as I watch the seamstresses drape in a quiet workroom with only the sound of pins pricking fabrics. It's videos like this that make me grasp for a higher standard and a better appreciation of this skill.

Jane Eyre 2011

2011-02-05T08:30:00.001-05:00

Anyone else excited for the new reboot of Jane Eyre? Yes, I'll admit, I hardly doubt anything will come close to the BBC's version of Jane Eyre, but can't a girl hope? With stills like these can't you just anticipate the excitement of another period drama?

What's your favorite edition of Jane Eyre?

Fashion Spotlight: Charles James

2011-02-04T08:30:00.002-05:00

I'm beginning the process of what every BA candidate dreads...The Senior Thesis. Instead of finding a topic I skillfully procrastinate (I have a lot of experience on the action...or inaction) by logging into my ArtStor account and looking at pages and pages of drool-worthy costumes. I came across these muslin examples from the American couturier Charles James and was absolutely fascinated. They must have found his secret, untouched workroom filled with muslins yet to be sewn. Don't us sewers love to see the behind-the-scenes of brilliant designers? Let me tell you I was completely thrilled when I purchased Claire Schaffer's Couture Techniques and even more giddy when I watched Signe Chanel on Sundance (I'm still looking for an affordable DVD set). I love watching and learning on their methods of construction and what it takes to make a couture piece.

Like Chanel, Charles James began as a milliner. He had a little shop on top of an garage in Murry Hill, Queens. Soon he's designing for all the socialites in Paris! Legend is he spent almost two months working on just a sleeve. A sleeve!!!

See the outline of the seam? 1/2 inch instead of 5/8th?

I love that we can see even a couturier used shortcuts. Imagine how many pins they go through?

His muslin is his canvas.

This, to me, is beauty. Pencil lines and all!

This is probably my favorite picture for the ability to see where he marked the grain and numbering the pattern pieces.

Unfortunately, Charles James died in the 1970s (thanks indigochid). He is remembered as America's first couturier.

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Post-Stop

2011-02-01T16:48:00.005-05:00

A week or so ago I was remarking how I really don't have any separates, and despite having tons of dress patterns, I really don't wear dress all the time.

Especially in the winter time.

Especially when I have 8:30AM lectures.

I searched out ebay for some deals and found this lovely 1950's Kimono Sencha-look-a-like and a very Katherine Hepburn 1940s blouse. By accident the seller sent me the 1950's button-down shirt and allowed me to keep it when she shipped out the intended 1950s kimono blouse. Too bad I didn't get it a few weeks ago to participate in the MPB Shirt Sew-Along.

I left so many sewing supplies at home. I feel as if I do this every time I return from vacation. So I'm missing interfacing and another box of Dritz buttons. Not only am I snowed in but the nearest sewing supply store is in the city and I'm not buying a $13 ticket to get $2 interfacing. So I'll have to mail out to restock my supply, which means I might not finish my dress this week.

I received my tax refund. Guess what I got?

So, I was a little naughty. I really should have used my refund on something more responsible, you know, like groceries or textbooks.

Nah. This is much better! Who needs food? I'll just steal a few things from the refrigerator from my roommates. (Yeah, I'm that roommate.) My PowerShot 620A was purchased in 2006 with 7.1 megapixels, busted flash, and a LCD that pops out when turned the wrong way. I want a nice camera to do bokehs and take pictures without flash (such a party killer!).

Don't you love college? How amazingly we repurpose our favorite beverages for decorations?

Sewing Project: 1960's Olive Slenderette

2011-01-28T11:51:00.005-05:00

Enter Simplicity 4860, a Slenderette pattern. I'm very excited to work with this pattern. Looks like one of those Jiffy dresses, a simple shift dress with no darts and a front facing closure with a zipper in the back. I'm slowly regretting that I already cut this pattern out in this fabric. The olive green gabardine is very light, maybe a little too light for this dress. Oh well, that's what happens when you go against your better judgement.

I actually have tons of covered buttons in my stash, usually from stocking up on notion sale days at Joanns. I have both 1.5" and 1.2". I thought the 1.5" was bit too obnoxious for the dress (or for me) and I think the 1.2" is just the perfect size for being mod with also being contemporary. I'll be making View 2, without the sleeves and collar. I'm planning on wearing it like a jumper over a turtleneck or long sleeves. I'm thinking because of the lightweight fabric it might be more suited for the fall, where the days are only chilly from the breeze, not during the 6ths largest snow storm in the tri-state area of New York.

Can't you tell I'm already dying for spring?

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Spring Inspiration

2011-01-26T10:38:00.006-05:00

I am stuck in my dorm room with a box of heavy, dark wool hiding under my bed while massive amounts of snow accumulate outside. So can you blame me for dreaming about spring? I'm already creating my list of fabrics for the next season. I would like to acquire some liberty prints and soft cotton florals for dresses, Japanese linen for skirts, and lawn and cotton sateen for blouses. I'm imagining bright pastel colors and Edwardian-esque silhouettes. Possibly might dabble in some heirloom details like lace insertion, tucks, and smocking. Then I glance back outside and I remember about all the wool that still needs to be used and my sheepskin snowboots drying by the door. Sigh.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

Finished: 1950's Violet Wiggle Dress

2011-01-24T13:19:00.002-05:00

It's finally finished! It took longer than I would have preferred but it came out beautiful in the end. I also got to do my first fabric-covered buckle, which was a headache, but turned out to be a wonderful accessory with the dress. It's more like a coat-dress with the heavy wool but kept me nice and toasty while I was taking photographs (it's freezing in the Hudson Valley!). Went to my father's mountain house for some of the pictures and they ended up beautiful, though because I'm behind the sun the fabric looks much darker than it really is.

The snowflake pin and earrings are vintage Weiss.

I just cannot get enough of the belt and the buttons! I've had those buttons in my stash for the longest time and felt so happy when I found the perfect fabric to match!

The back is my absolute favorite detail.

The Secret to be Well Dressed

2011-01-21T23:58:00.002-05:00

"A needle and thread, some cleaning fluid, a clothes brush, and an iron are the hidden secrets of keeping well dressed."
Sewing Update: Received my sewing supplies to finish the 1950's Violet Wiggle dress this weekend.

The Girls of Pleasure Island (1953)

2011-01-18T10:00:00.006-05:00

I am officially snowed in and devoting myself to finish my instant queue while I handsew the last of my wiggle dress. I've found quite a lot of B movies on Netflix, all of them with 3 stars or less, which naturally scared me as I didn't want to waste my time. I took a chance after reading the summary of The Girls of Pleasure Island. Let me tell you, I was not disappointed.

It's 1945, the last year of WWII, a British gentleman is raising his three proper daughters on an island, called what else? Pleasure Island, which is completely untouched by civilization--and men! That is until the US Marines need to build an airstrip on it.

Meet Violet, Hester (yeah, really, Hester), and Gloria. Besides Violet, who I mistaken the whole movie as Leslie Caron, and Gloria who's voice was like nails down a chalkboard, Hester was the only tolerable sister.

The sisters are invited into their father's study to be informed about some serious news. Approximately 1,500 of them. Yes, 1,500 men on an island with only three girls. (Where can I sign up?). How else to go about this news than to discuss it with your daughters as you're handling a loaded pistol?

So he accepts that his little girls are growing up and the best way to help them is to prepare them by reading some neo-Victorian literature on the subject.

One word.

Creepy.

Hester, a.k.a. the only likable sister, probably has the best wardrobe out of the bunch. But here is when the inconsistencies arise. It's so blatantly 1950s with the circle skirts and the hairdos, they don't even make an littlest of effort to make it seem like 1945.

The girls are welcomed at the dock wearing their Sunday best. They are greeted in cat-calls and a shower of gifts such as chewing gum by the American Marines. After all, it's the first "white" women they've seen in months--yes, they say this, a few times actually. This is when the true colors of pre-civil rights era comes back and reminds you that you're wearing rose-colored glasses.

The Marines find themselves calling the girls from their front lawn. Forget "Say Anything" I don't want one guy with a boombox, give me a whole army! There are quite a few humorous lines in the movie that got some laughs from me.

When the father tries to move them off of the property one Marine replies: "we're just window shopping, we're not touching the merchandise."

Their wardrobe truly reflects their characters. Violet is bold and coquettish, her dresses are often frilly and bright in color. Hester is the more sensible girl out of the three and her dresses often are simple and light in color. Gloria's age comes through in pink gingham and ponytails.

Hester has a lovely talk with her surrogate mother/household seamstress Thema.

"Are you sure my petticoat isn't showing?"
"A little petticoat never hurt anyone."

"You ironed their prettiest frocks?"
"I've been sewing for them since they were babies. My first chance to see if I've done a good job."

Doesn't she have the greatest view on things? I want her as our in-house philosopher.

Even though the father is about to have a nervous breakdown from having to constantly protect his three delicate, virtuous daughters from the seductions of 1,500 horny marines 24/7 Violet still doesn't think twice to try to give her father a heart-attack.

"I cut the shoulder straps off."
"But it won't stay up!"
"Oh, but it just stays up. The suspense will be terrific."
"I have a child who wants to play with the laws of gravity."

Hester, of course, has the best ballgown in a pretty dusty-rose chiffon. Don't get me started at the shrubbery sticking out of Gloria's ears.

Despite being the youngest at 15, Gloria has no trouble finding a marine. So I guess Pacific Islands have similar marriage laws as Mississippi?

"Are you engaged?"
"Yes. No. Well, sort of. She wears my frat pin."

Yes, frat pins, ever the conundrum back then.

The ending was nice, not at all what I predicted, but still left a smile on my face. Violet ended up being very practical and realistic in the end while Hester was forever the romantic. Gloria was too young for anything good to come out of 1,500 men on an island but got away 'unpinned'. It was made as a moral film for GIs serving in the Korean War and I can tell, it's the right amount of fluff and comedy.

7/10

Sewing Update: 1950 Wiggle Dress

2011-01-16T12:05:00.004-05:00

Meet Luna. She's been my sewing assistant for more than 14 years. Her favorite things to do are sleeping, chewing yarn and electrical wires, stealing food from your plate, purring, and growling at absolutely nothing from her window seat. Yes, I did name her after Sailor Moon. Don't look at me that way, I was nine years old when I got her. Anyway, Sailor Moon is still awesome.

Today I wanted to do a vintage tools tutorial on the Singer Buttonhole Attachment for bound buttonholes. So where is it you ask? In the trash.

Meet the Singer Buttonholer. Is that a word? Buttonholer? Whatever. I'm going with it. So, I'm not really a stickler for instructions. I think of them more as friendly suggestions. This time I through out all of my stubborn thoughts like "instructions-skamuctions, who needs them?" and this time I followed them to a tee. The buttonholer is excellent for regular satin-stitch buttonholes--I now know not so much for the bound buttonholes. But how was I suppose to know that? Look at the bound buttonhole on the box! I was pretty optimistic.

Everything was going pretty smoothly. Maybe following directions are a must?

This is what the bound buttonholer does, just makes a nice oval stitch in order for you to do the "patch" method and turn it inside out to make a nice little window.

Still pretty optimistic.

Okay. Maybe a little snag. Nothing to worry about. I'm sure everything is going to be fine. No need to panic.

PANIC!!!!

What the...?

What went wrong? How did my ended up looking like that? Didn't you see the box? Mine should look like this:

Can we say false advertising?

Anyway. Ripped a 1/2 day of work and started back to square one. This time I prepared the buttonhole with the "two patch" method and things looked a little better. Okay, don't need to panic.

See, maybe not following directions is a good thing. Luna approves.

Dior in Moscow, 1959

2011-01-14T10:43:00.004-05:00

As I'm sewing my 1950's Violet Wiggle Dress it reminded me of the set of photographs I once saw on the LIFE archives. A few of you know I've been to Russia a few times, once when I was 15 with my very adventurous father (Russia was his type of vacation) and then after high school with the intent to study Russian History. To make a long story short I ended up being very homesick and my stay was brief. Still, it's one of my favorite places in the world and I've had the privilege to see. Since then I love learning about Russian history, the good and the bad, and seeing it through art and photography are one of my favorite things to do.

In 1959 the Soviet Union decided to get with the times and host some fashion shows. Does Yves Saint Laurent's Russian Collection ring a bell? Dior decided to bring their "New Look" straight to the people at GUM, which is like Russia's version of Galleria, located directly in Red Square. Back then it had more sensible shops for the working comrades, today it hosts over 200 luxury brands--like Dior.

Dior had it their mind just to walk with the people at GUM, who by their expressions seemed horrified and curious all at the same time.

Despite loving Dior...well because it's Dior...I'm kind of loving the floral dresses that nearly all of the women are wearing. Kind of wish I stuck around Moscow for a few days more just to do some vintage shopping. Wait while I add it to my bucket list.

Credit: All

Sewing Project: 1950's Violet Dress

2011-01-12T16:34:00.003-05:00

Another snowstorm hit, though there wasn't as much as everyone expected. I really don't feel like shoveling my car out from being under a plowed pile of snow, so I got to work on my next project. I've been waiting to use this pattern for over 3 years. It's rather sad how us sewers will pattern collect for years and we might not even use them all before we die. I'm pretty sure my 6 pattern boxes with quadruple in the next 10 years! Anyway, I had a very pretty violet wool gabardine in my stash and searched through my pattern boxes to find something to match.

I've really been into the 1950's silhouette right now. You know the clinched in waist, slim skirt, and torpedo-shaped bust. It kind of reminds me of the St. John ads back when Angelina Jolie was the face of their campaign, before it was suspected that she overshadowed the campaign and dropped her for Karen Elson.

Credits: 1,2,3,4

Wool Signature Dress

2011-01-10T10:46:00.008-05:00

I happened to buy some wool over the summer, back when posting to this blog was a chore. Between two jobs I felt like this blog took a backseat. I didn't want to sew, I do it as a job, and I certainly didn't want to post nonsense just as filler. After a very long absence I received the L.L. Bean Signature catalog and viewed my eyes on this lovely dress.

Pricetag: $112. Again, broke college student. Fortunately, I had a very similar wool flannel in my stash. For the first time in almost 6 months I wanted to sew again. I always want to sew, don't get me wrong, but this time I actually had some motivation. Now, it's a basic shirtwaist with a peter-pan collar, an A-line gathered skirt with three tucks around the hem, and a ruffle at the bottom. Very copyable.

I searched my pattern boxes for something similar and came up with this:

Unfortunately, I had two yards of the flannel. I actually had to use scraps to make the sleeves because there wasn't enough fabric. I picked out some random skirt piece from the box and got to work.

After a day or so, I had this beauty:

Behold, my Macgyver sleeve!

I think I've finally hit my stride. No longer do I feel blogging is a chore. I'm much happier now doing what I love for me.